A Wine
Drenched Tour Along The Red Route of Paarl, South Africa by
Gregory Hudson
The
wine tradition in Paarl is older than
the roots of the aging Oak Trees that line its Cape Dutch streets. The
first European settlers arrived at the Cape of Good Hope in 1652, planting
the seeds that solidified the Cape's reputation as a wine growing heaven.
Now
that the work has already been done, what else can you and I do but savour
the delicate fruits pressed with decades of winemaking experience and travel
the newly formed routes leading us to the finest wines in the world.
Forget
the majesty of the Drakensberg Mountains, try to ignore the historic monuments
perched loftily upon pearly hills, the kind of wine tasting to be done
in Paarl will require every ounce of your concentration.
Now
that we know what we are going to be doing in Paarl, apart from enjoying
the scenery, let's make a journey into the winelands, delving into present
day winemaking communities, uncovering their interesting attributes and
tracing those lively wines to hideaways so often missed by the multitude.
Along
the way, if we're lucky, we may make the acquaintance of a genuine Garagiste,
a class of heretic garage winemakers shunned in France by the old school
traditionalists because of the stir their independently crafted wines create.
There might be a hint along the way as to where we might discover one of
those who make these "Vins de Garage". The mixture of Paarl's perfect climate
and their special skills is sure to be very rewarding.
We
start our journey at the entrance of the Hugenot Tunnel, the breach to
the longest wine route in the world, also known as Route 62. But we go
no further; what we are mostly concerned with is the infamous Red Route...
The
Red Route
The
Red Route, as you can imagine, is named because of the large amount and
quality of red wines along its relaxing meander. It was formed by a collaboration
of wine producers known as the Paarl Vintners (Wine Merchants). The Vintners
diligently plotted a wine route for an estimated 24 participants, all found
within the Paarl Valley. One or two of these include the De Zoete Inval
Estate owned by the Frater family, who have been making wine here for more
than 115 years. The Rhebokskloof Estate has also been producing wine since
1692. Unfortunately, the wine from that early period has already been consumed.
The
Red Route is without question a collection of the most renowned wine producers
in the world. Any effort made in finding them would not in any way be an
inconvenience to your taste buds. The Red Route's Cabernet Sauvignon and
Shiraz are undoubtedly the best in the world.
Fairview
Not
strictly a wine route, the Red Route is also, by happy coincidence, a cheese
route. Which brings us to our next stop along our journey - Fairview.
Fairview
is South Africa's largest producer of speciality cheeses. For over 25 years,
dairy goats have supplied milk for a variety of cheeses ranging from Jersey
Milk, Brie and Camembert to a wide variety of Italian and French-style
cheeses. If however that is not enough of an incentive to visit Fairview,
a little historical rundown should serve to amplify your interest... Fairview
not only produces speciality cheeses, but also award-winning wines. In
1693, Simon van der Stel, the second governor of the Cape of Good Hope,
allocated the original land at Fairview to Steven Vervey, a French Huguenot.
The first wine was made on Fairview in 1699 and a long tradition has long
since developed. Fairview started its own bottling in 1974 and auctioned
its first bottled wines at the very first wine auction ever held in the
country, pre-dating the now famous Nederburg Auction.
The
Nederburg Auction
The
Auction is Paarl's largest wine festival and is like the World Cup for
winetasters. Held at the end of every summer, the auction epitomises what
fine wine is all about. The very essence of the event lies in the tasting
of 147 award winning wines, perhaps even those of the Garagistes, but you
will have to wait and see!
The
auction is a benchmark of quality for South African Wines and serves as
a showcase for African wines to the international trade. Because of this,
any label proclaiming "sold at the Nederburg Auction" is regarded as having
an official stamp of approval, worldwide.
Too
much talk about wine is liable to make a person a little obsessed. It is
after all only fermented grape juice. But Paarl makes it well and the Red
Route is the best place to find it.
Good
wine naturally goes well with good food and Paarl offers some of the best
restaurants in the Cape, serving a variety of foods that mingle well with
a bottle of your favourite tipple.
Paarl
is also a place rich in history with its architectural wonders. They seem
to represent the concrete and stone versions of its fine wines. Each wine
estate has a unique attraction - a gable, a special goat tower like the
one at Fairview or even a gargoyle waiting for the flash of your camera.
Olive
Tasting
Because
tunnel vision limits the mind, many things can be missed along the Red
Route. Take olive tasting for instance. This is becoming a major attraction
on some of the estates, many of whom now grow Olive Trees for the export
of olive oil.
The
rest is up to you. Whether you get down to the specifics and finer details
of wine tasting or broaden your horizons gazing over the Paarl Valley from
Paarl Rock depends on which side of the tunnel you're on. Enjoy Paarl!
About
the Author
Oak
Tree Lodge is centrally located in the historical Cape Winelands town of
Paarl, South Africa. Visit their website for more information on Paarl,
South Africa.
Somerset
West (Afrikaans Somerset-Wes) is a town in the Western Cape province
in the Republic of South Africa. It is situated in the Hottentots Holland
area, about 50 km (30 mi) southeast of Cape Town and 10 km from Strand.
It was named after an English governor of the Cape Colony during the 1800s,
Lord Charles Henry Somerset, with the suffix 'West' being added to differentiate
it from Somerset East, another South African town in the Eastern Cape.
Somerset West lies within easy reach of several beaches bordering the Atlantic
Ocean and lying within False Bay. The nearest, the beach at Strand, approximately
6 km from the centre of the town, is popular with those having young children
and holidaymakers, as is Gordons Bay, a quaint village complete with harbour
and other innocent attractions.
The
town is overlooked by the imposing Helderberg (meaning "clear mountain"),
a part of the Hottentots Holland range of mountains but clearly distinct
from the continuous aspect of its contemporaries. The town also boasts
the wine farm of Vergelegen (meaning "far lying", or "far situated"), a
beautiful 18th century farmhouse built in the historic Cape Dutch style.
The farm is now owned by a subsidiary of the large mining company Anglo
American, who have restored the farmhouse to its original magnificence
and continue to produce some of South Africa's best wines there.
NH
the Lord Charles, SOMERSET WEST Our
property boasts 188 air-conditioned rooms and 9 luxurious suites, all tastefully
decorated in a harmonious setting for relaxation or business. A large number
of rooms have their own private terrace, leading out onto our splendid
9-hectare estate. All rooms have a magnificent view of our manicured gardens,
majestic Helderberg Mountains or a panoramic sea view over False Bay.
Straightway
Head Country House Hotel, SOMERSET WEST Situated
at the foothills of the Helderberg Mountain in Somerset West Straightway
Head offers a selection of 19 beautiful garden cottages, a short walk from
the Manor House. All the rooms have en-suite bathrooms and are tastefully
furnished with private patios leading onto the rolling gardens.
Willowbrook
Lodge, SOMERSET WEST Willowbrook is a haven of
peace, charm and tranquillity. Eleven spacious rooms set in 8000m of beautifully
landscaped gardens alongside the placid Lourens River. Play a round of
golf on the Gary Player designed Erinvale Golf Estate, 2 minutes drive
away or go whale watching in False Bay. You may also prefer walking in
the near by Helderberg Nature Reserve.
Stellenbosch
is the second oldest European settlement in the Western Cape Province,
South Africa after Cape Town, and is situated about 50 kilometers (30 mi)
away along the banks of the Eerste River. The town became known as the
City of Oaks or Eikestad in Afrikaans due to the large number of Oak trees
that were planted by the founder to grace the streets and homesteads.
The
town is home to the University of Stellenbosch. The Technopark is a modern
corporate and research complex situated on the southern side of the town
near the Stellenbosch Golf Course. Stellenbosch is said to be the heart
of Afrikanerdom due to the large number of academics and students who have
lived and studied there.
The
Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek valleys form the Cape Winelands, the
largest of the two main wine growing regions in South Africa. The South
African wine industry produces about 1,000,000,000 litres of wine annually.
Stellenbosch is the primary location for viticulture and viticulture research.
Professor Perold was the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch
University. The Stellenbosch wine route, established in 1971 is world renowned
and popular tourist destination. The area has a mediterranean-type
climate, with hot summers, cool winters and clear, sunny skies. It is at
the start of the Cape Fold mountains, which have created soil favourable
to vines. Grapes are grown primarily for wine, not as table grapes.
Protea
Hotel Stellenbosch, STELLENBOSCH Situated
in the heart of the winelands, in one of the most beautiful and heritage-conscious
towns in Southern Africa, Stellenbosch. With its Mediterranean climate,
scenic environment and well-maintained facilities, Stellenbosch is the
second-oldest town in South Africa and affectionately referred to as the
"Town of Oaks". Whether it is the magnificent backdrop of mountain ranges
you seek, perhaps just a scenic drive, wine tasting at wine farms or an
adventure-filled ride in a hot air balloon - you will never run out of
things to see and do. Based in a Science and Technology park, Techno
Park, this 176-bedroomed hotel is flanked by two international class golf
courses and a fine selection of wine farms.
River
Manor Boutique Hotel and Spa, STELLENBOSCH River
Manor Boutique Hotel & Spa is a graciously restored retreat at the
leafy heart of historic Stellenbosch in the Cape Winelands. 18 rooms, B&B.
River Manor nestles quietly under Stellenbosch’s ancient oaks beside a
river, just 2 mins walk from the town’s historic centre. South Africa’s
second oldest settlement, it is an ideal base for exploring the Western
Cape and its renowned winelands. Just 30 mins from Cape Town, its calm
ambience will lull you – as will River Manor’s pampering spa. For
the more active, mountains, vineyards, golf & cheetahs await. Breathtaking
golf and hiking are just 10 mins drive away – as are Stellenbosch’s 100
or so wine farms.
The
Stellenbosch Hotel, STELLENBOSCH Enjoy
old world charm with air-conditioned modern comforts and friendly, attentive
hospitality in the historic centre of Stellenbosch, the capital of South
Africa's most famous wine route. The Stellenbosch Hotel is a 27 room
boutique style hotel that also offers 6 self-catering apartments.
Guest rooms have extra length King, Queen, Double or Twin beds with en-suite
bathrooms, air-conditioning, bar fridge, television, clock radio, hair
dryer, room safe and telephones. A full English or Continental breakfast
is included in the value for money room-rates. Complimentary bottle of
mineral water, tea and coffee provided.
The
Village at Spier, Accommodation on Wine Estate, STELLENBOSCH An
escape for body, mind and soul, Spier offers a combination of sybaritic
experiences - fine food, wine, music, art... a destination of great variety
that needs time to explore. Starting as a wine farm in 1692 in the
shadow of the Helderberg mountains near Stellenbosch, it has a cultural
heritage which it proudly preserves. The Village has been built
in Cape Malay style with 'homes' clustered around courtyards, swimming
pools, gardens and waterways. The 155 rooms are decorated in an unassuming
manner but furnished in luxury and providing a peaceful environment. The
gardens have been landscaped to exploit the magnificent setting, embracing
Spier's many features such as an 18 hole golf course, the riverside pub,
four restaurants with many cuisine choices....
Villa
Grande Guest House Accommodation, STELLENBOSCH Exclusive
Stellenbosch accommodation in an elegant, luxury Guest House at the heart
of the Cape wine country, South Africa. Villa Grande offers warm-hearted
guest house accommodation and is situated in the centre of historic Stellenbosch
in the beautiful Cape winelands. Whether you break away for a holiday,
business or an overnight retreat, Villa Grande guest house will ensure
a friendly homely atmosphere in immaculate surroundings. At the end
of a quiet and leafy cul-de-sac, you will find the cool, shuttered façade
of Villa Grande. This elegant renovated 1920s villa offers exclusive accommodation
and a serene retreat within easy walking distance of the diverse attractions
this vibrant university town has to offer.
Yellow
Lodge Guest House, STELLENBOSCH Yellow
Lodge Guest House is situated on the edge of the beautiful and historic
town of Stellenbosch off the Main Road, only 15 minutes from the False
Bay Beaches, and 30 minutes from Cape Town. Spacious en-suite bedrooms,
and 1 self catering apartment individually decorated have TV, bar fridge,
underfloor heating and private telephones. Enjoy breakfast Al Fresco
or in the breakfast room overlooking the pool area. Secure parking. German,
Afrikaans and English is spoken.
Wellington is a town
in the Western Cape Winelands just to the north of Paarl, in South Africa
with a population of approximately 55 000. Wellington's economy is centered
around the wine and brandy industry. With a picturesque environment and
numerous award winning wineries, Wellington's tourism industry has started
to blossom. The town is located 75km north-east of Cape Town, reached by
the N1 motorway and R44 highway. The town is at the base of one of the
oldest mountain passes in the country, Bain's Kloof Pass, built by master
road-builder Andrew Geddes Bain. The town is the home of the Boland Rugby
Union and the professional rugby team the Boland Kavaliers. The town is
also an academic centre, with Huguenot College, Cape Peninsula University
of Technology, Bible Media and Huguenot High School amongst others.
Up to 2003, the residents
of Wellington, and those unfortunate to be passing by on a day when the
wind blew the wrong way, knew full well that another industry for which
Wellington is famous is the leatherworks, responsible for Wellington's
other name, "Smellington". This leatherworks produces some of the finest
leathers in the country numbering BMW amongst others as customers.
The beauty of the area, however, far outweighs the temporary discomfort
that was experienced when passing the leather factory. The pass up to Bains
Kloof winds thru pine tree plantations, to the summit where on a clear
day you can see forever (where forever consists of the swartland to the
right, home of the vast wheat fields, the cape flats and Cape Town to the
right, and the sun glimmering on the sea.
Mooi
Bly Landgoed Estate, Between PAARL & WELLINGTON A 60 minutes drive from
Cape Town, somewhere between Paarl and Wellington, on the slopes of the
Du Toit Kloof Mountains, you'll find the beautiful estate called Mooi Bly
Landgoed. You will be able to enjoy four fully equipped cottages with all
comfort available. Each cottage has a kitchen that is situated next to
cozy lounge and a terrace to watch the sunset while having a barbeque.
Seidelberg
Wine Estate, Between PAARL & WELLINGTON, Winelands “A
little bit of heaven in the Winelands” was how one visitor to our historic
Wine Estate summarized his experience. Elevated high on Paarl Mountain
the farm has one of the most scenic and magnificent views over the Cape
flats and Table Mountain. Three newly renovated historical country
houses on Seidelberg Wine Estate offer luxury and spacious accommodation
combined with old fashion hospitality. All private situated country
houses are equipped with wireless internet, satellite TV, safe, fire place
and air-condition. The recreation facilities offer swimming pool, sauna
and tennis court.